Hello. Ima new guy to this forum.Hope it's the right place to ask questions and learn...I have a 1995 Safari motorhome with a 94 12 valve intercooled turbo charged motor, 6 speed Allison transmission, 165,000 when purchased in 2012. Rig weights 22,000 pounds. We flat tow a small car, 2500 pounds +/-. I rebuilt the engine in 2013. Since then, We've been cross country, Canada, etc Apprx 60,000 miles. We live near Phoenix. Too hot to stay home over the summer. Only truck I own is a 41 Ford, Chevy motor. I want to learn enough to know I'm getting all I can outta my diesel without destroying it. If I'm in the wrong place, please let me know.
1. My rig didn't have a EGT gage. I installed one during the rebulld. I back off at 1100F. Don't want to melt pistons or other stuff. Of course, this drastically affects performance when climbing mountains. Phoenix is @ 1200 feet elevation. We can't go anywhere without climbing. That involves 2nd gear and 25 mph. Once above the rim, we run 50-60 in 5th, except for hills, etc. We/ve passed AZ emissions every year. Very little smoke at 1200 feet but it gets black under load at higher elevations. This is my first diesel so it's hard to gage if the performance I'm getting is average for a vehicle of this weight and equipment. I have driven Rams belonging to my kids and they fly (even with horse trailers) while I creep.
2. The rig came with a Banks Big Horn after market waste gate controller. Turbo puts out up to 35 psi (pegs the gage) but that causes almost instant high EGT. Makes me wonder if the extra psi is of any benefit. Also has an exhaust brake and stock exhaust manifold. Turbo discharge is 3" dia, so is the exhaust brake. Tail pipe goes to 4" after the exhaust brake. I can stick my arm thru the muffler. My engine manual describes a calibration method for the waste gate controller. I had the turbo rebuilt when I did the motor but not sure it was calibrated or if the factory settings will work for the after market controller. Not sure if the waste gate even opens... Any suggestions?
3. I removed and reinstalled the in line injector pump when I rebuilt the motor. Set the motor at TDC using the timing pin and set the pump at TDC using it's timing pin. From what I've been reading, the timing and calibration process is much more complex than the steps I utilized. Yet, the engine starts and runs and passes emissions for the past 8 years. I did not rebuild the injection pump when I did the engine. I think the previous owner may have messed with it but don't know. I'm considering rebuilding the pump (it has up to 225,000 miles on it). Would like to do that myself. The parts are affordable but I can't spend 2k for a rebuilt plus install and calibration. I have reasonable mechanical skills and basic tools. Is this something I can do or is it best to leave the pump alone? It does run...
I have other questions but this is probably enough for now. I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks for your help.