12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

12 Mpg!

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Old 03-17-2006 | 11:03 AM
  #16  
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Yeah, I know I'm taking a risk with the electronic fuel sensor lasting on a 12V but I have a teenager driving it sometimes and didn't want the chance of fuel in the cab, even a extremly slight one. I got a snubber from Auto-Meter folks and was planning on isolating it from the vibs by using a grease gun hose so maybe it'll last a bit longer. Hearing that those tapped banjo bolts were for 24V's only has let a little air out of my sails though. Would anyone like to offer their 12V electroninc press gauge sender mounting solutions? It would be appreciated!

I have not check my boots yet but will do ASAP! That's exactly the kind of things I was hoping to hear, thanks Dude!
Old 03-17-2006 | 06:23 PM
  #17  
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From: Oldenburg, Indiana
The truck in my sig just nailed down 21.5 MPG, but that was almost all highway.
Old 03-18-2006 | 10:15 AM
  #18  
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Gearing is 354. Intercooler boot clamps all appear snug but a squeeze of the lower driver's side hisses a bit. It appears OK on visual inspection so I guess it could be an internal "hiss" and not leaking. Should my boost gauge be displaying the final boost delivered anyway? If it's showing 18 pounds shouldn't I have 18 pounds, possible leaks and all?
How do I check my pump timing and turn it back a bit as suggested?
Infidel was right (again) about the Geno's banjo bolt not fitting a 12V, close but slight smaller diameter. (Anyone need a tapped banjo bolt from Geno's?) So any sender mount tips would be most appreciated. Is tapping banjo bolt on the input to the IP the only solution? If so tap it with what a 1/8" NPT? Then should I use a section of grease gun hose to isolate the vibration? Pics of other 12V installs would help me out immensely.
cheers
Old 03-18-2006 | 11:02 AM
  #19  
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From: Montana
Remove the banjo and drill it from the bottom to keep the hole straight, use a bit that fits tight. The size of the bit varies with different banjos but most often is the correct size for a 1/8" tap. If not enlarge the hole about a half inch deep from head end then tap it.
Install your needle valve or dampener into the banjo bolt then GG hose to the fender. Use anti-seize or Permatex #2 for thread sealant. NO teflon tape, it will fail. The banjo bolt threads need no sealant, the washers do it.

Old 03-19-2006 | 01:25 AM
  #20  
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From: Shawnigan Lake, BC
If 18 is the max boost you are getting then I think you have a boost leak. Probably a hole in a boot. My max boost was 25 before I did any mods, now it is 30 and waiting for a Southbend clutch . I average 21mpg at 60mph, mostly highway driving. Hope this helps.

JDF
Old 03-19-2006 | 10:20 AM
  #21  
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From: fergus ont canada
Talking

im getting a giggle here with your mpg if that is all you get iu would park it i average 23.5 to 24.2 anytime even hauling my race car all i did was knock off muffler and hyper tech on stage 3 all the time and i average it in cold weather too as per im in canada
Old 03-20-2006 | 08:43 AM
  #22  
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Boost Leak Found!

Well I think I may have found the answer. I decided to test the intercooler boots so I got s 4" PVC drain cap (not schedule 40, the thin wall kind) drilled a hole in it and popped in a valve stem. I then removed the air filter and stuck it in the snout. (Cut a few grooves around the diameter of the pipe cap otherwise it's too smooth and will blow out, rather loudly )
Hooked up an air line to it and listened to the hiss. It wouldn't even hold enough pressure to give me time to walk aruon the fron of the truck to find it. I had to get an assistant to operate the air so I could locate the leak. turns out that all my boots were OK but somebody didn't torque down the bolt that holds the fuel drain line bracket just to the right of the fuel filter when he swapped out the injectors DOOH! Guess that's just part of the fun of wrenching Tightened down that bolt and the system would hold about 15 lbs of air pressure without any noticable leaks (16 lbs blows out the ungroved cap BTW, PHOOM! didn't know my son could jump that high )

The PO installed that set of Bosch 370's (that I, eh I mean that dufus, swapped out) and a boost and pyro gauge and a adjustable wastegate. He told me that if I went back to the stock injectors that I should dial the wastegate back to 18 lbs, which I did. Is that correct setting for a wastegate on a stock '96 with auto? Talk of 25 and 30 lbs of boost have got me wondering.

Thanks to all that contributed!
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