I have a buddy that bought a 96 and it came with a #11 Tq plate and is wondering how much power it will give him and how it will affect his fuel milage. I told him his right foot is what controls your fuel milage more than anything, but that I would come on here and ask... thanks

 

If everything else on the truck is healthy (fuel system, valves adjusted, timing correct, ect...) it should be 280hp 680tq with the plate in the stock location, if its slid full forward about 30-40 more than that.

Fuel milage is hard to predict.
Normal every day driving if he doesn't floor it no effect.
If he's towing really heavy the extra power may allow him to use a higher gear with less rpm thus giving better milage.
If he's hot rodding around all the time or using the extra power to tow faster, worse.

 

Okay, thanks!!!

 

I have a #11 full fwd. Dynoed 297/611 with a 5 speed 215 pump, original injectors, timing at 15.7 BTDC. If he has an auto it will be lower. I totally agree with the rest of NMCTD's post.

 

Yeah it all depends on the truck and dyno. The most I've heard a 215 motor with an #11 slid forward is 368, I just said 30-40 more cause thats usually "about" what sliding a plat forward does, I dyno'd 360 on a 330 plate full forward

 

Where can i find a profile for a number 11 plate? i have found a ten and a twelve but not an eleven. i was told that is the best but what do you suggest?

 

Whats "best" for one persons truck and needs doesn't mean its "best" for another! I personally like the #10 much better than the #11.

A #11 is not even recommended for the auto trucks like yours. The #11 is profiled for the 96-98 215hp 5 speed trucks which fuel a lot more than the 180hp motor in yours.

For your truck, if your auto is stock? I would put a number #6 in there, that is the highest rated plate for the stock auto. Also if your auto is stock I wouldn't grind your own unless you can get a #6 in your hands to measure and copy, because if you bring the fuel in to much in the wrong place you could risk smoking your tranny

Now if you put atleast an aftermarket valve body and maybe a converter in the tranny it opens alot more options for you. Just make sure you get some gauges in the truck (atleast a pyrometer) so you don't hurt the engine with to many EGT's.


Here is a link for you, this is the original desinger of the aftermarket plates, if you scroll down the page they have a guide to the plates on there that helps choosing one.

http://www.tstproducts.com/94-98dodg...thvideo-1.aspx

 

Sorry to but in but i was thinking about gettin a #11 plate for my 96 auto"auto is stock", is it not recommended because it doesnt give a large gain in hp or is it somthing else. im lookin for a mild plate only 30-40 hp gain or so, should i look at a different plate or will the #11 get me there.

 

I could be wrong on this as I'm no expert by any means but...

To my knowledge it has nothing to do with the total power output of that plate in a 180hp truck, it is that the 180hp pumps need a different fueling curve to run properly than the 215hp pumps. Also the plates are desinged for a specific fueling curve that does not put excess stress on stock drivetrains.

The #11 and #12 which are desinged for the 215hp motors have a VERY different curve to them than the ones designed for the 180hp and lower motors like the #8, #6, and #5. Some of the plates are more interchangeble such as the #10, #100, and #0, which will work good in just about any pump, but those are pretty aggressive plates for a stock truck, and alot more aggressive than 30-40 hp.

If all you want is 30-40 hp you could probably acheive that just by sliding your factory plate full forward and installing a boost elbow to get some more air in there to go with the fuel (under $20) . That was the first HP mod I did to my truck, and it was a nice improvement.

Or the better option would be a #8 plate, This would put your truck at 230hp/605tq. I know a few people that just wanted a little more to pull the big hills with their RV's and they really liked the #8 for this purpose.


If nothing else you could call TST and ask them what they say about puting a #11 in your truck and see what they say, after all they were the original desinger (a retired cummins engineer) of the aftemarket plates.

Hope this helps...Josh

 

thanks for the help, guess ill try just sliding the stocker up for now. i also was thinking though that its not all about how much you move it forward or back but the profile of the plate that gave a different fuel curve then the stock thats the only reason i was thinken about getten a new plate vs. movin the stock one.Will look in to the #8. but if i can save $200 well then all the better. thanks again

 

A #11 is more than enough plate to roast a clutch if you lug it or add power before it fully engages. Buddy of mine has a 96 w/ 5spd and he gets great highway mileage (no matter which plate is run).
The hp is going to be around 300 with plenty of torque. 300 is more than enough to pull a heavy load with respect (of the over-valved, stroke & max crowd) and get the job done.

Make sure your buddy checks for the killer dowel pin & 5th gear nut fixes.

 

I would not slide a stock plate forward without at least a pyrometer. The governor lever can stick under the plate and drive massive Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) that not only kills an engine, but doesn't help a stock auto either.

What part of Auburn? I lived straight east of Fred Meyer on 14th St

 

So what is the biggest most powerfull plate for a 95 cummins. yes i have an auto but it will hold it

 

Yeah the fueling curve has alot more to do with it than the position does, I just metioned sliding the stock because thats about (30-40 hp) what you get out of it. The Best option would definetly be to get a plate designed to give the power you want. Also definnetly get some gauges if your don't have any, atleast a pyrometer.



This is good info also!! I didn't have any problems with my stock slid, but I also have a diferent pump so... If you decide to slide the stock plate, it wouldn't be a bad idea to check governor adjustment once you slide it and make sure the falls ON the plate.

 

I haven't personally dyno'd them, but I'm going to say a #4 or posibly a #0. Just by looking at them I'm going to say the #4 will have a little more peak HP and the #0 will have a little more peak TQ.