Chrisreyn

OK, learning about my new to me 3rd gen, don't have an owners manual and got some questions:

1) Do the valves get adjusted on these as my first gen did or are the y fixed?
if they get adjusted, what is the procedure?

2) Whats the recommended oil change interval on these? What size filter does it take?

3) whats up with the fuel filter? cant find it?????( stupid , I know)

4) cant seem to locate a Power Steering reservoir either..pics would help..

5) are dash cracks as big a concern with these as they are with the 2nd gens?

6) need to install a trailer brake controller, do these have a factory plug for a controller and if so, where is it?




any other routine maintenance particular to these that I may not be aware of??

OK, thats all I can think of fo rnow, Im sure there will be more later..

and THANK YOU in advance..

madhat

1. Yep, you should check the valve lash any time you have the valve cover off, or 100k miles. You should do it now since you just got it. Intake is between .006 and .015 (shoot for .010), exhaust is .015 and .030 (.020 is what they want) If they fall within the tolerances, don't mess with it. Some folks say there are better numbers to put them, just leave it stock.

2. 5k, but it depends on the type of oil you use. Get an oil sample, see what the oil says. As far as a filter, go to the dealership and get the OEM, or go to walmart, they have the OEM filter on the shelf. It's just a big mopar box that says dodge cummins on it.

3. Fuel filter: Driver side on the side of the block, all the way toward the fire wall. Should have a black cap. This is a view of the canister from the back of the engine looking forward. That is also the canister mounted fuel pump... if you have one of these, do something about it now.


You can see the canister in the bottom right of the picture.





4. Power steering: Front of the engine on the driver side. Follow the serpentine belt.


5. Not as bad as the second gens, but still bad. My dash is cracked.

6. Yes, you should, and it depends on if your truck had a tow package. There will be a plug under the dash, you have to look, it's up in there. If you need a pic, let me know... you have to have the dodge wiring harness to hook to the controller. I can give you more info on this if you need it.

Are you sure you need to be working on a third gen?

Other stuff you need to know: picky about fuel. Don't chance crappy fuel. Water and debris will ruin injectors.
Don't crack the fuel lines or open any other part if the fuel injection system with the truck cranking or running. The fuel is highly pressurized and can hurt you or those around you.
The fuel pumps on this specific truck go bad. If you have a fuel pump on the back of the fuel filter canister, you need to replace it now. Turn the key on (on, not start) and listen for the FP hum. If it's coming from the tank, you're good.
Blend and recirc doors on the AC go out. If you have flow or temp issues, it's usually one or the other.

If you get a lamp out light, but can't find a burnt out bulb, look at the wires on the bottom of the bulb. They will be melted a little and not making solid contact and set the lamp out sensor off.

If funky stuff starts happening with the electrical system, or the truck starts freaking out, check your batteries.

The wires on the back doors get pinched and the window and door lock stops working on that door.... pull the rubber boot back and splice the wires up.

I could go on...

papaduck

Madhat gave you a lot of good info.

The best fuel filter to use in the canister is a Baldwin BF-7977. It is a 5 micron filter and a good fuel/water seperator. The next best is the Fleetguard and Mopar which are 7 micron and are good fuel/water seperators. All three are listed as absolute. Many other brands are listed as nominal and may not be good fuel/water seperators. Very clean fuel is a must for the common rails and absolutly no water. Many have added a spin on fuel and fuel/water seperator to increase the filteration to 2 micron.

There are many good oil filters, Fleetguard makes the MOPAR filters and are much less $$. The Fleetguard Stratapore is very good and is used by many. There have been problems with the use of the Fram filters. Oil change interval is listed at 7500 miles for harsh use and 15,000 easy use. If you do a lot of short trips, less than 15 miles, go with 7500 or one year. You can use synthetic oil or dino, your choice. Just be sure it is listed for diesel use.

The differential(s) uses GL-5 75w-90 synthetic and is first changed at 30k miles for light use and 15k miles for heavy use (towing). It may be overkill but I change the rear a 15k and the front at 30k. The auto trans, transfer case and power steering use ATF+4. If you have the manual trans and it is the NV-5600 then it uses a syncromesh oil such as Penzoil Syncromesh which is what I use. And the first oil change is listed at 30k miles.

Chrisreyn

Absolutely NOT.. got a mechanic buddy who once told me I had no business owning a set of wrenches..
I like doing my own maintenance, and want to know enough to know what the shop is talking about if I need to take it in..
Looking at this thing, it doesnt look like its in anyway related to my 93's 5.9


How do they compare to the WIX filters? those are the ones I have used in the 93 and always been happy with them


THANKS guys!! I know this is simple stuff, but I gotta start somewhere..

Chrisreyn

ok, so why would the PO have wrapped a plastic bag grocery bag around the PS reservoir cap? Its wrapped around the cap, then the cap was put on... now its kinda stuck..
are these prone to leaking? looks like he ws trying to stop a spill or something.

papaduck

The Wix fuel filter will not meet the requirements for the common rail engine, if I remember correctly the Wix filter is a 10 micron nominal. The '93 did not need as clean a fuel as the '03 and up. The injectors in the common rail are made to the tolerance of 1/10,000 of an inch with a moving needle and work in fuel pressures to 25,000 psi and more. The '93 injector is just a nozzle. I am not knocking Wix filters, I do use a Wix oil filter on my van.

The PS reservoir is probably becoming pressurized and blowing out fluid.

47Dodge

The Wix is 7 micron...................

47

Totallyrad

Chris, the power steering cap can get cranky to reinstall at times. PO may have trashed the gasket. Before you pull yours off you might look into getting another cap and gasket, just in case. On my 04.5 the manual said 7500 miles if I was working it hard, 15,000 if it was just running up and down the road. I have it stickered at 6000 and then decide based on how hard I've worked it. There are good aftermarket fluids available for the differentials as well and run about half the cost of the dealer stuff.

papaduck

Thank you for correcting me. But is that 7 micron absolute or nominal?

The Fleetguard, MOPAR and Baldwin are absolute.

47Dodge

The Wix shows a 7 micron nominal.............


47

Chrisreyn

Thanks for all the info guys, that helps alot!

Found the plug for the brake controller, up behind the steering column..



Plan for now is oil/filter, fuel filter and air filter change, check the diff lube ... oh, and new shoes all around..check the pads/rotors while the tires are off....

I agree that I should check valve lash, is there a write-up on the procedure anywhere or is it identical to the First Gen?
Looks like that #6 cylinder/valves are gonna be fun to get to...

gonna have the ECM flashed simply so I know for a fact it is at factory settings, then look into a Smarty Jr as the funds become available to try and improve the mpg a little..


anything I am forgetting?

madhat

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...prog=1&lang=en
Valve lash. Google has some other links. I've seen them on youtube as well.

#6 isn't that bad.

Chrisreyn

OK one last (?) question:

I've often advised First Gen owners to run a can of SeaFoam or another injector cleaner through the engine to help with fueling and mileage issues with their "new" trucks...

BUT if the common rail engine is as fussy about fuel as I am gathering, is this a bad idea for this engine/injectors??

havent done it yet, but had thought of it....

madhat

I don't suggest sea foam... when you get your new filter, drain the fuel filter housing and pour in the power service gray, fill the canister. That'll flush your injectors out...

The jury is still out on whether using additives regularly are worth it. When I go on long trips I will buy a bottle and use it, and when I change the oil I safe the WMO and pour it in the tank. (I have a fumoto drain valve, no messy drain pan to deal with). I may buy some two stroke from time to time, but I don't regularly use additives.

When I change my fuel filter, I do fill it up with Power service. That's about it.

Chrisreyn

I had also wondered about running "black diesel" in it, now i know! THanks Mark, you're being a great help..

* insert saluting smiley here*