Fuel gauge problem - not sender
#1
Fuel gauge problem - not sender
Well, my fuel gauge suddenly stopped working. It was always reading empty and the low fuel light was always on. I searched the forum and found that is was likely the sender in the tank.
Well, I bought a new sender and installed it and still nothing. I ended up testing the resistance of both senders and they both appear to be fine (20/200 ohms).
Any ideas on what the problem could be? I checked continuity of the wires at the gauge in the dash and all appears ok. Is there any way to "test" the gauge itself?
Thanks
Brad
Well, I bought a new sender and installed it and still nothing. I ended up testing the resistance of both senders and they both appear to be fine (20/200 ohms).
Any ideas on what the problem could be? I checked continuity of the wires at the gauge in the dash and all appears ok. Is there any way to "test" the gauge itself?
Thanks
Brad
#2
You can test the gauge cluster....Hold down the trip/odometer button and turn the key to on(do not start truck, and keep holding down button). Keep holding down until "check" appears in the odometer window, then let go of the button. Watch it do its thing and see what your results are.
#4
Well I tried this the other day. No luck. It did display "CHEC" on the odometer. When I released the button it did it's thing but it didn't give any errors that I could tell. The fuel gauge never moved.
Anyone else have any ideas, I'm at a loss here.
Thanks
Brad
Anyone else have any ideas, I'm at a loss here.
Thanks
Brad
#5
According to the shop manual, if the gauge does not respond to the self test the problem is in the gauge cluster. It says to remove the cluster and check the gauge terminal pins to be inserted through the spring clip receptacle. If these connections look OK, replace the cluster.
#6
Thanks for the tip.
I did the self test again and it worked. I did not the the test correctly the first time. Anyway, the gauge works with the self test and the sender is showing the correct resistance values, so I guess it's somewhere in between thats messing things up.
Anyone else had this problem before? I will check the connections as bent valves described.
This one is frustrating, you read that 99% of the time the sender fixes this problem. Actually, my old sender was fine.
Brad
I did the self test again and it worked. I did not the the test correctly the first time. Anyway, the gauge works with the self test and the sender is showing the correct resistance values, so I guess it's somewhere in between thats messing things up.
Anyone else had this problem before? I will check the connections as bent valves described.
This one is frustrating, you read that 99% of the time the sender fixes this problem. Actually, my old sender was fine.
Brad
#7
gauge problem
it happened to my 1999 2500 diesel too
turned out the connection under the driver's side
right after the front wheel is corroded. you might want to take of the mudflaps/guards if you have to acces the wires to check
turned out the connection under the driver's side
right after the front wheel is corroded. you might want to take of the mudflaps/guards if you have to acces the wires to check
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#9
Thanks again, espanton. The only bad part is I wasted the effort to change the sender.
#13
Check your ground.. I had the same issue on my 99 and tapped into the wire and ran a ground right to the frame.. Mind you i also have a hole cutout right above the tank for easy access lol otherwise you will need to drop the tank..
#14
#15
remove the wire from the sender, if the gauge still reads full there is a short in the wire to ground , most likely chafed at the frame (mine was on top of frame rail). If the gauge drops try jumping the wire to ground at which point it would read full again if everything is fine in the harness. then you can look at the sender.
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