draginbottom

Been reading up on the headlight relay install and everything I read says you need three relays to have the low beams stay on with the high beams. I just completed the install today and you can accomplish it with only two relays. One 4 pole and one 5 pole.

I am sure somebody else has already done this just thought I would throw it out there.

On another note I upgraded dodges last week. Got rid of the 93 and got my brothers 92 which is in way better shape. Time for some upgrades

jimbo486

another guy on here has done it. he didn't reveal the secret to me though . jim lane knows it can be accomplished with only 2 relays. i can recall im saying something about a diode. how 'bout a write-up for the sticky?? i'd like to do it with one less relay also.

wannadiesel

I chose to use three relays because those generic relays are readily available if there's a problem. If there's an auto parts store open, they have a relay for me.

82F100SWB

It can be done with 2 relays, without hooking them together. On my Fords I simply bypassed the dimmer switch with the low beam wiring, it's hardwired to the power feed from the headlight switch. Then the dimmer switch only turns power to the high beam circuit on and off.

Bogie

I just bypass the dimmer switch as well test the 3 wires one is power in and the others are outputs, I hook the Lo beam out to the input which will keep them on at all times and just use the floor switch to trigger the Highs on/off

Jim Lane

Yes it can be accomplished very easly by inserting a small signal diode between the Low and High beam relays or it can also be inserted where they connect to the factory harness.

To do this all you need to do is when you are building your harness before you crimp the wires for Term.#86 in addition to the Blue and Red wires insert the leads of a diode with the Anode to the Blue and the Cathode to the Red and then crimp the terminals, when you look at the diode the end with the band is the cathode and is connected to the High Beam Relay.

The theory of operation is simple, when the Low beams are on current is blocked by the diode from flowing to the High beam trigger but when the High beams are on the diode passes current to the Low beam trigger circuit turning on both the High beam and Low beams simultaneously.

LOW~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~-HIGH
Term. #86 <------ DIODE------> Term. #86

Remember:
Anode = Blue Wire on the Low beam relay.
Cathode = Red wire on the High beam relay (this is the side with the BAND)


FYI Term. #86 is the vertical terminal on the left side of each relay.



Get your diode from Radio Shack or any electronics supplier; use at least a 2-amp diode for this addition.

When I get some time I will add this to my original post.
Hope this helped.
Jim

Ronny Bailey

Has anyone with this setup had any problems?
With higher voltages and both filaments on, it seems the bulbs would overheat and burn out pretty quick.

Jim Lane

My SilverStars only last around 7 to 8 months since that I have installed my relays.

I have probably the ultimate electrical system on my truck with my 160-amp Leece Neville alternator turning out 100-amps at an IDLE, all of the charging system is wired using #2-gauge welding cable to each battery. Each headlamp is fed with a 10-gauge wire so I am supplying each lamp with at least 30-amps @14.8 volts.

I wish that the lamps would last a bit longer but the extreme output that I am getting from these lamps I think is a fair trade-off for the shorter life.

If you look at the specifications for the SilverStars you will see that they are actually running them at 14.0 volts to get the rated lumens

Quoted from: http://sylvaniaautomotivecatalog.wbd...nTechInfo.aspx

Rated Life
The rated average laboratory life to be expected operating the lamps on stationary racks, energized with regulated D.C. voltage. Actual service life will vary with application.

In incandescent lamps, the filament resistance, temperature, current, watts, light output, and life are all greatly affected by the voltage. Empirical equations are available, relating those parameters to voltage over ranges of as much as 10% from nominal voltage. The designer may improve one parameter by changing the voltage, but in doing so shifts all the other parameters. For example, the life varies so that a small decrease in voltage will greatly extend the life; but the light output will simultaneously decrease as the fourth power of that voltage. The nomograph and curve diagrams below show the interrelationships of current, candlepower, and operating life to voltage.


All life data presented in the catalog are given as B50 @ 14.0 volts for halogen products and at bulb rated voltage for all others unless noted.

So this lamp should be able to run at 14.0 volts since this is the test voltage that they check them at.

And if I am reading this right I think it is kind of unfair to rate the lumens at a voltage much higher than the 12.8 volts that the lamp is rated for.

I have more information on these lamps on this thread.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...w-t256595.html

As far as the lamp generating more heat and burning out unless you live out in the country most people would not have their High beams on for any extended period of time and as for the life of the lamp, halogen lamps burn excessively hot by their nature and I feel the rough handling of the lamp by the rough ride of our trucks combined with the halogen capsules searing heat plays an equal part in the short life of our lamps, but I could be wrong.

Other members here with unmodified headlamp wiring also seem to be experiencing shorter than normal life from these lamps.

So if you are thinking is my modification causing the lamps to have a shorter life and is it worth it?

Yes I am sure the added voltage and current gained from the relays is causing them to burn out quicker but most everyone will agree with me that the brute force in light output is well worth having to replace then a little sooner.

Jim

Jim5870

I did this mod two years ago, havent burnt a bulb yet.
Worked out very well.

draginbottom

Heres a quick sketch of how I wired mine. Did not need a diode. Seems to work well. The wires that say they are coming from the battery I ran through a 30 amp breaker.

ppiggppenn

Excellent use of relays, ... I'm gonna change my relays to this configuration, .... what does your DRL do with this setup? ...

crug75hid

I wanted a High Intensity Discharge kit which is a very cool light and
better visibility especially during night driving. I opted to go with
the single beam HID kit too and love it, they are cheaper on ebay but
I wanted a warranty so I got it here
Sealed Beam
Headlight Kits, or you can try one of the vendors. Also some of
the forum sponsors selling
Headlight Kits usually have a sale going on. Either way its a
great system, and very easy to install.