1stGen545

I really try to keep things as mechanical as possible because it has less chance to mess up that's why I have 2 12-valves. This is what I just put in tonight. All 3 switches are actually air switches that will handle over 120psi. the left one is the valet switch, down has the air to the injection pump cut off and up allows it to work like normal. the next is the 2wd low range, down will allow vacuum to engage the front CAD and allow normal operation. In the up position blocks the vacuum from engaging the CAD and lets you have low range with out the front axle engaging and binding and makes it nice to back a trailer ( especially up hill ) around with a grabby clutch with out a bunch of jumping around. I have room for 1 more switch but have not made plans for the last 2 yet.

I can see this helping my MPG a good bit. With the air to the injection pump at full throttle egt's are around 900* and boost is 20-23 psi. Flip the switch and it sets you back in the seat and in 2-3 second egt's shoot to over 1500* and boost jumps to just under 40psi. I knew it would make a good diff but I was still all giddy the first time I did it ( and the next 5-6 times). This should help me slow down a little and get a little better MPG ( well as good as it can be with a #10 full forward ) now it feels just a little better then stock and I can have the best of both worlds.

I will post a vid to show just how much it changes.

TNutcher

looks sweet! i prefer air toggles like you got there to anything with a solenoid and wires. I have my 2low switch plumed essentially the same way and love that little toggle
TNutcher

1stGen545

Thanks. Works a lot better than the junk cup holder that was there that was only good for sloshing your drink all over everything because its so high, I have a 98+ shifter cover with cup holders in it.

cumminsdriver635

That's sweet man! I never thought of using an air toggle. I was gonna try to make my own, but ended up with the PDR switch. Oh, and you can play with the starwheel and smoke screw and make your valet mode exactly what you want it to be. Works pretty good. I have mine set where it runs about 30psi at the top of 3rd, and EGT's stop around 1200*. Where can you get an air toggle and how much do they run?

Eric

schoust

Hey Guy's where do you get those switches from? I ended up with a very small Ball valve mounted in a spot that is very inconspicuous but would prefer the air toggle....

haloman

Looks good. Better than the cup spiller holders

1stGen545

thanks. I will see if I can find a part # for yall. They all have part of the # missing. They came out of a Peterbuilt and were used for the air ride dump, 5th wheel lock, and power devider lock. Lots of other trucks use air switches but they are big and ugly and most take more room than 3 of these.

1stGen545

Heres a vid of how well it works. I will try to do a better vid next time. Yes I had help do the vid from the back seat. Have a few more little tweeks to work on. This was at full throtle all the time the only diff is when I flipped the switch and let the boost make it to the pump.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0324afCDuA

dieselman2300

You got to find some part#s or a place we can get these from!!

strokerace

Love the diamond plate switch mount and the shifter cover w/ the cupholder!!!!!!! I'm gonna have to do that to mine

1stGen545

You have to do a little work ( cut , bend, weld ) to get the shifer where it needs to be for the T-case. I have one out of a 01 so it has the same shift pattern s the 205 4L-N-2H-4H not 2H-4H-N-4L like the 94-97. It can be made to work with ether. The 98+ use a shifter mounted to the floor bord not to the trans like the 94-97. I used the shift top of of a 98+ so that the shifter consol, shift stick and all that will work but you can use the stock one.

1stGen545

I hope in a few days I can get over the honeymoon period and leave the switch off and try to get a little better mpg and not just flip it on and off all the time. But its so cool. Hope I don't were the switch out.

Will try to get a part # and price this week if I can. Not an add but I can make kind of a kit for you guys if you want with all the parts if you want ( not for profit just to help) since some of the parts may be hard to find if you dont have a good truck shop near you. Just PM me. You need one 1/8 NTP 90* fitting with push-lock for the head and one compression flare and nut that will fit on the factory fitting on the AFC housing ( you can also use the same thing on the head ). About 10ft of 1/4 air line and the togle switch. I will get all the # and do a better post with pics of all.

dieselman2300

Count me in for a pre made kit. I will be putting my switches in the same cup spiller as you did. I would want it for the valet. I already have a posilok kit for my 4 x 4.
PM me for a price.
I have a 97 4 x 4 5spd manual.

1stGen545

If I can ever get off work again befor 5 I know a place that will have or can get all the parts just have to get there. Any one that wants one PM me.

1stGen545

found every thing to make it work. The switch I found is a Sloan 401160. Its not exactly what I have but is really close and should be available at most truck parts stores.

Remove stock line from intake to AFC housing but leave the fittings

use a feral and nut and connect one end of the 1/4'" line to the fitting on the intake and route inside the cab to desired place for switch.

Do the same with the other line to the AFC housing

Make sure all lines are free of moving parts such as brake, clutch, and gas (diesel) peddles.

mount switch buy drilling a 1/2" hole and placing the switch in it and securing it with the nuts

Place the line coming from the intake and connect to the side of the switch with the arrow pointing IN and the AFC line to the one with the arrow pointing OUT.

Do not reverse or the switch will leak because it is designed to vent the air on the outlet (AFC) side when in the blocked position.

With the switch towards the flat spot on the treads the switch is open and will allow the AFC to receive boost as normal.

With the switch away from the flat spot the switch is closed and will block boost from getting to the AFC and will not allow for extra fuel and will greatly reduce smoke and EGT's on a modded truck.

This will allow you to run an aggressive plate and larger injectors but be able to keep the smoke and EGT's lower for towing or to try to get better MPG.